Build your dome

Building your dome is a rewarding experience. To make it easier we’ve created a step-by-step guide on building your Dome.
Please note that you will still receive an instruction manual with your order specific to your Dome.

The process of building your dome

Step 1)

Build dome frame

start with working out the centre point of your dome. This will be an important and time saving task to ensure that your Glampex Dome is perfectly rounded (not ovular). Using the plans we provide to you, measure out and position the main door frame (temporarily anchor it down for safety) and build your Glampex Dome level-by-level until the frame is complete.

Step 2)

Anchor the frame to your foundation

Whether on a slab or a deck, the dome will still need to be anchored to the platform that it sits on. The reason why it needs to be anchored to something structural, is to ensure the dome can withstand ultra-high winds. The first section to fail in extreme weather is the connection from the frame to the foundation (the frame itself is really bloody strong because of the spherical shape consisting of a bunch of triangles).

Step 3)

Install the cover

this part is the most labour intensive section of the Glampex Dome build. We recommend getting as many people as possible for this task (unless you are going to use machinery to assist). As the cover is all 1 piece, this needs to be pulled/placed over the frame.

Please remember to use safety precautions to undertake this section such as ropes, safe use of scaffold/elevated platforms and ladders etc.

We recommend pulling the cover over from where the bay window is situated on the frame (this is because the clear section tends to grip onto the frame more-so than the coloured section). Before pulling the cover over, ensure the cover is not inside-out and that the bay window is at the bottom of the cover pile (basically not the section that is being pulled over).

Once the cover is 80% of the way over, start adjusting it to the correct position. Use the door position, bay window, mesh windows (if any), ventilation ports, holes for the solar fans and central skylight as references to find the sweet spot. Spending time getting this correct will ensure the next process is easier as well as making everything lining up better and more uniformed.

Step 4)

Tension bars

Feed the tension bars through the sleeve located around the lower perimeter of the dome’s cover (internal) and bolt the J-hooks to your anchor plates (a sleeve is welded into the inside perimeter of the cover). The most practical way to do this is with 2-3 people.

Each person should pull the cover outward at both anchoring points so that the sleeve becomes accessible.
A third person makes a vertical cut in the sleeve, approximately 20–25 cm long from the base anchoring point, to allow the tension rod to pass through.
One person inserts the rod, while another assists to prevent scratching the inside of the sleeve.
The hole at the end of the rod must align with the fastening hook point on the base plate.
Once all rods are in place, secure them to the base plates using the J-hooks. Do not overtighten immediately, as it will make it harder to insert the loop. Tighten just enough so the loop doesn’t become loose.
There are O-rings on the door frame of the cover—this is where you’ll thread plastic zip ties to attach the cover around the door to the vertical frame rods.

Step 5)

1ST Round of tension

Once you have installed the tension bars, do a round of tensioning. We do not recommend tensioning all the way in the 1st round as it will simply stretch the bottom section of the cover instead of tensioning the entire cover. We normally do 3 tensions over the course of the build (if it is colder weather, we recommend to do another tension after a few weeks to give the cover enough time to settle and iron out the wrinkles). This process is more effective when a 2nd person can assist by pushing the cover out (from the inside) around top of the first tier (the row above the tension bar) while it is being tensioned to ensure that the cover is not simply stretching at the lower levels.

Step 6)

Install the door (optional at this point)

this is typically only if the weather isn’t on your side. As there is more materials that need to be brought in, you risk scratching the door. If the weather isn’t the greatest, it is more important to protect your flooring as well as the insulation/curtains. Just be more cautious when bringing materials through the doorway. (Details on how to

Step 7)

Install the solar fan/s

This section is better with 2 people (1 on the inside, 1 on the outside). Remember that you are now working at heights so please be careful and practice the appropriate safety methods when undertaking this section. A ladder can lean on the frame/cover (we recommend placing soft material between the cover and where the ladder makes contact to avoid rubbing as you climb the ladder). We have created a video that better explains the installation process.

Step 8)

Install insulation to the 2nd tier from the bottom

the process starts from the centre at the top (if you have a skylight then it will be the next level down from that). Every insulation panel has a number on it. The 1st number is the level it is on, the 2nd number is the specific placement within that level (this will make sense when you see your assembly plan) On the insulation you will see some Velcro (top, bottom, back and front. Where the Velcro is on the front (the soft material side) that will be the direction that you will install the insulation. There are plastic caps (we call Nobby bits, thanks to my partner Ash) that will screw off the insulation to the bolts that connect the frame together. There will also be ropes that are sowed to the back of the insulation to minimise sagging of the insulation. This will become self-explanatory when installing. Once you get down to the 2nd tier from the bottom (the number on the insulation will change depending on size of dome) install this level only at the top. This is so that you can install the porthole windows (if any) using the hole in the insulation panel as a reference without it getting in your way.

Step 9)

Install porthole window/s (if purchased)

This process is time-consuming—proceed carefully, as you will need to cut a hole in the cover.

There are three steel rods for each porthole window, each marked with a number. Attach them according to the plan.
Carefully remove the window and place it on a non-scratching surface. Remove the openable part of the window and the corresponding ring, and keep all the fittings safely.
Screw the window frame onto the rods, with the rubber seal facing outward.
Temporarily secure the insulation so that the window is centered in the hole.
To determine the exact position, use a sharp utility knife to trace around the inner edge of the window frame on the outside (have someone inside pushing the window outward).
Remove the window, insert it into the hole, and then fasten it with screws.
Attach the ring to the window—on the outside, drill through the cover, then screw it from the inside.
Apply silicone around the outer edge to make it watertight. Let it dry completely.

Step 10)

Second round of tension

Before completing the insulation, tighten the cover again.

Step 11)

Finish the insulation (except for around doorway and bottom skirt)

install the last 2 levels of insulation, leaving the bottom of the last tier to allow space to do the final tension.

Step 12)

Install the door ( if not already )

The door is fairly straight-forward to install (especially compared to other conventional doors). Our door frame has threaded inserts which line up with our door’s frame hole section.

Secure the door frame firmly and precisely to the base (on the interior side, the standard distance is 897 mm, measured horizontally at the top and bottom).
If the fit is too tight or too loose, loosen the screws and adjust accordingly.
Two people should lift the door (with the keyhole facing outward), being careful not to carry it flat, as the glass is fragile.
Position the door onto the threaded inserts and hold it while the other person screws in the bolts from top to bottom.
First tighten the screws by hand—avoid overtightening with power tools.
Test the opening and closing of the door; adjust if necessary.
Apply silicone around the gap between the door and the door frame on both the inside and outside to ensure it is airtight and watertight.

Step 13)

Tension around doorway and final tension of cover

Tighten the cable ties around the door once more, then (in good weather conditions) perform the final tensioning. Finish the insulation around the door area as well.

Step 14)

Install press bars

The trim rods help seal the cover around the perimeter of the dome. It’s most practical to do this with two people:

Start on one side of the door, locating the anchoring points and the door frame.
Pull up the cover to expose the inner skirt (the material welded to the cover), which is where the trim rods will be attached.
One person should hold one end of the rod, the other the opposite end—space them evenly using finger-width measurements.
One person screws the rod through the cover into the base, while the other ensures that the cover remains outside the trim rod (not tucked underneath it).
Since the inner skirt is tighter, a small cut must be made at the center of the base plate (only through the outer layer of the base plate to avoid compromising the waterproof seal).
Repeat this process around the entire perimeter of the dome.

Step 15)

Finish around the doorway

Perform the final tensioning around the door. Install the trim rods around the door frame—one person screws them in, while the other pulls the excess cover material to ensure a neat finish.

There are small holes at the front of the door where the trim rods will go—start with the vertical rods, then install the top one. The ends of the rods are cut at a 45° angle to ensure a precise fit.

Carefully cut around the inner edge of the door frame using a utility knife, taking care not to damage the metal frame, as this could lead to rusting.

Finally, attach the external press bars to the mounting plates around the door.

Seal off the interior insulation around the door using the remaining insulation panels.

Next steps

Continue to the next step, or go back.

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